A Dinner with Cats

Location:Zötscher’s Mostheuriger Familie Kössl
Address:Döllersiedlungsstrasse 10, 3340 Waidhofen an der Ybbs
Status:Appears to be closed (last checked on 9 October 2015)
Eaten:“Bauernjause,” one glass of Most (pear), three glasses of Kaisermost

The difference between a Brettljause and a slightly more expensive Bauernjause, I’ve learnt today, is that the Bauernjause contains thick pieces instead of slices. Having always considered thickness as a sign of authenticity, I went for the Bauernjause and was not disappointed.

It’s a seriously big affair: there is a Speck, two types of Schweinsbraten (the standard grayish one and the better cooked and spicier brownish one), Geselchtes, Salami, Blutwurst, a round piece of liver pâté wrapped in something yellowish (I am frightened even to think what it could be), and – very surprisingly – two cold ribs, which were very well spiced and proved to be the highlight. Some of the stuff appeared as a single slice only, but a rather thick and therefore very satisfying one. All the meats come from the local butchers, and there is no reason to doubt that, since the taste is quite different from what is normally served in less authentic places.

There is no cheese unfortunately, and even more disappointingly, no mustard, butter or spread to put on the bread. As a result, there is no way of building good sandwiches, but then that’s not the right way to eat a real Brettljause anyway. The “decoration” was provided by the horseradish (unexceptional), a Pfefferoni, tomatoes and salty cucumbers.

The biggest problem of this particular Brettljause came from my habits: I always try to eat the stuff I don’t like first. By the time I finished the liver and (fortunately not too disgusting or abundant) blood sausage, I was really looking forward to the other things. And that was exactly when the cats came. The red one went all around my legs and even jumped on the bench on one occasion, while the tabby just sat under the table looking extremely sad. Both received a lot of fat from my Bauernjause and more than a few pieces of meat, but I could not help regretting that they did not appear earlier to share the liver and the Blutwurst.

The location is very nice, if a bit far from Vienna, and the dishes are not only huge but also very inexpensive. The Most, especially the Kaisermost, is the best I’ve tasted so far: rather light and very refreshing. Certainly a place to return to.

3.5

Brettljause
Variety
Authenticity
Size
Atmosphere/service
Value

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