Here is another Heuriger that proudly carries the “Most Baron” award – which in the past has always meant a pretty good Brettljause. Perhaps this particular place is too close to Vienna (reaching it requires 2.5 hours of rather unexceptional hike from St. Pölten), or maybe the owners prefer to concentrate on the other dishes (many people around me were taking something called the “Family’s Secret”, which is flatbread filled with different stuff), but the Brettljause did not impress me this time.
To give it credit, it is quite big, cheap, very varied and certainly better than 90% of what one can expect to get in Vienna. It boasts one-fourth of an egg (better than no egg at all!), plenty of salted cucumbers and really lots of horseradish. It also has two or four different spreads (two of them are meaty ones) in addition to a bit of mustard and some creamy sauce. The only cheese was buried deep under the spreads and was recognized as being cheese only by its color. The meats, however, are abundant, though thinly cut. The Schweinsbraten and some smoked ham were quite good, and the blood sausage was, luckily, scarce, but the rest of the sausages had neither authentic look nor taste. The “Wiener” sausage in particular looked very supermarketish. The bread (dark slices and white rolls) also seemed industrial and not especially fresh.
What is disappointing for a “Most Baron” Heuriger, the Most itself was not great. The sweet variety was not sweet at all and tasted more or else the same as the cheaper “generic” type. The small cheese plate I ordered in addition while waiting for the train back did not impress either, containing the same cheese and spreads as the Brettljause and some strong “green” cheese that was very unlikely to be produced locally.
Moderbacher is a nice place – if you manage to reach it – and its offerings can be very enjoyable at the right moment, but it’s just not wonderful Brettljause-wise.
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