Twenty years ago it was impossible to order a beer in Neustift am Walde. Times change, however, and the former wine-purists are more than happy to give you a Krügerl if you ask. Fortunately, they also give you a Brettljause, and not a bad one, too.
This one is limited in terms of variety but is very pork-heavy. An impressive pile of cold Schweinsbraten is mixed with impressive piles of cold thinly cut Stelze, Geselchtes and Speck (a very good Speck, by the way). There are a couple of slices of cheese and two Pfefferonis, but these are clearly for decoration only. There is also a yellowish spread – probably an egg-cheese mix with some shredded pickles added to it – which replaces butter and definitely beats taste-wise the much more common Liptauer.
There is sadly no mustard, and this is one of the problems. The much bigger problem is the presence of numerous tiny bones in the Stelze slices. This may be a sign of authenticity for some people, but for me they are just a pain in the butt to remove. Once this surgical operation has been completed, the Brettljause becomes rather enjoyable, as long as one is hungry. The quantities and the fatness are considerable, so the complimentary Schnapps is very welcome.
The location is convenient and pleasant, though today being Sunday and the weather being far from hot, I ended up sitting alone in the rather beautiful garden. On a different day and with more people around, Hauerkuchl could offer a much better atmosphere, and through a simple task of bone-removal, a better Brettljause. But even the way it was, Hauerkuchl is worth another visit.