A Jause with a View Remastered

Location:Wieninger am Nussberg
Website:http://www.wieninger-am-nussberg.at/
Address:Eichelhofweg, A-1190 Wien
Status:Burned down on 25 October 2016, but will hopefully be rebuilt next year
Eaten:“Winzerbrettl,” ½ Chardonnay Select

Two years ago this nice little place belonged to a guy called Hajszan and his friend Neumann, who owned half of the vineyards around, in addition to a rather expensive restaurant in the 19th district, a rather cheap beer place in the 9th and another restaurant in the Lower Austria, where I have never been. Later, they operated the same place on a shared basis with three other wineries and removed the Brettljause from the menu (and actually removed the menu, too). Last year, this Buschenschank did not open at all. And now the entire wine business of Hajszan has been bought by Wieninger, one of Vienna’s wine kings from Stammersdorf, who confusingly kept some wines under Hajszan’s name, and brought plenty of its own, together with a re-mastered Brettljause.

The new Winzerbrettl is a smallish affair, especially once you finish the less-than-welcome liver pâté and blood sausages. What is left is a few thick but tiny slices of Speck, two types of ham, a few slices of Hauswurst, one slice of white Speck (that is, pure fat), a Liptauer spread and some medium-strength cheese, served with a picked cucumber, a Pfefferoni and a bit of horseradish. The white Speck is the best, though hardcore thing, very nicely spiced and salted. The Liptauer, strangely, is not boring at all, and goes well with the very fresh bread (one type of bread I took was still warm).

All the ingredients are non-industrial, like in the good old Hajszan times, but – also like before – nothing makes this Brettljause above average. What also remains unchanged, however, is the excellent view and the great atmosphere of sitting in the middle of vineyards. There is again an opportunity for a short walk down the Kahlenberg, followed by an hour with a good book, same sausage, cheese and overpriced wine: Nussberg is back.

Update from 18 September 2016: The blood sausage has been demoted to one slice only and the white Speck got replaced with some better-than-average Grammelschmalz. The non-white Speck is now served in thin slices and is quite enjoyable. With the absolutely perfect weather, like it was today, I would have added an extra point to both the Brettljause itself and the overall experience. If you are walking down from Kahlenberg, this remains a must-visit place.

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