Waidhofen is a lovely town, but their local Heuriger did not look like much even from the outside. What I saw inside was a smallish, rather dark room (there could have been other rooms I did not see, I admit) with a few tables covered with transparent oilcloths. Now although I fully understand the practicability of transparent oilcloths, there is something about them that is inherently unappetizing. It was somehow clear straight away that the Brettljause would be average, at best. And it fully met those expectations.
To give it justice, the meats (four or five types of them) could very well have come from the local producers and were quite tasty. The cheese, no matter where it came from, was completely bland and served no purpose except decoration. There were some eggs and butter (always good), the bread was reasonably fresh, and the horseradish was quite strong, but the whole Brettljause was missing any sort of a “wow” factor.
Unusually, the lady owner managed to create the most annoyance by approaching the table every three minutes, then turning back and leaving. Probably she was doing this out of politeness (and because there was no one else in the Heuriger on that working day), but it looked as if she was making sure I did not leave without paying. In addition, she got rather confused and uncertain when I ordered a Riesling after the first glass of Grüner Veltliner. I think knowing what wine you have is the minimal skill every Heuriger’s owner must possess.
It was not at all the worst Brettljause I have had, but there is hardly anything to recommend about Eva Wachauer’s Stadtheuriger, especially since the vastly superior Zötscher’s Mostheuriger is well within reach.