If you want to experience Aumann’s Brettljause, you have to visit it after 11 p.m. Marketing-wise, it’s a brilliant idea, I think – it took me many months to find an opportunity to get there that late, during which I was building mental images of a hidden gem of a Brettljause. Of course, there is another, much simpler reason why they serve the Brettljause so late, and it’s because Aumann’s main cook has to go home. The waiters – or anyone really – can take the cold plate from the fridge, remove the covering plastic and serve it.
Unfortunately, there are a few signs that it’s exactly what happens. The meats in particular (some pretty good ham and pretty standard Schweinsbraten) taste as if they have spent a few hours cut and refrigerated. Besides that, there is not much else: two small spicy smoked sausages which I remember buying in a supermarket, a couple of slices of Bergkäse of not much taste and two of the smallest slices of Speck I have ever seen: hardly 3x3cm square pieces. To add insult to injury, the Speck is easily the best part. Apart from the mustard and lifeless horseradish, the Brettljause also features a creamy spread, which is definitely not thick or tasty enough. Instead of cucumbers, there is a white pickled something, resembling a melon.
I have certainly eaten worse Brettljausen, but it is somehow disappointing that Aumann’s creation brought no surprises. Instead of a super-dish worth going to bed late for, it turned out to be a rather lazy excuse for the cook’s absence.