llmitz is very close to Hungary. It’s also home to the dark, hairy Mangaliza pigs, which are 50% tastier and more expensive than any other pigs. The combined result is a restaurant where the waiters asks you twice whether you want a small beer or a large beer, bring a wrong one anyway, talk among each other in a language no one can comprehend, miscalculate the final bill, but serve a very enjoyable Brettljause.
The Brettljause is not especially varied, containing only three types of meat and a thick slice of cheese. The cheese is immediately forgettable, but the meats are great: the dark lightly salted Mangaliza ham is particularly original, but the meaty and juicy Geselchtes and very thinly cut Speck are, too, tasting very different from the standard out-of-a-supermarket pork.
There were no horseradish and mustard on the plate, but somehow they were not missed; the meats could stand very well on their own without any help. Even the paprika and the pickled cucumber were different, somehow fresher than usual. The whole dish had a weird – though not unpleasant – taste of perfume, as if the cook had sprayed it before serving. Each ingredient had its own flavor, though, so I don’t suspect any foul play.
Located on the main square of the town, Bartholomäusstüberl is not a very inviting or cozy place, but if you are short of time and cannot look for alternatives in the vicinity, their Brettljause is worth trying.
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