Stammtisch Jause

Location:Buschenschank am Hannersberg
Address:Berg 171, 7473 Hannersdorf
Status:Open (last checked on 15 November 2015)
Eaten:„Brettljaus’n,“ ¼ Sturm, ¼ Blaufränkisch, ¼ Welschriesling

Hannersberg is only open six weekends per year – three in spring and three in late autumn; the rest of the time the owners seem to make money by hosting weddings and other special events. In the days when the Heuriger is open, this spacious Buschenschank on a hill overlooking the village of Hannersdorf is more than popular. At 12pm the parking lot in front of the building was full of cars, and the only table available without reservation was the huge wooden “Stammtisch” in the middle of the room. When I arrived, just one couple was sitting at the opposite corner of the table. Within ten minutes, a group of six people arrived, pushing me into another corner, and shortly afterwards another elderly couple squeezed me from the other side. All were very polite and rather quiet, but there was something very uncomfortable in sharing a table with ten strangers, forcing me to eat and drink quicker than I would have otherwise (and deciding not to order a wild-pig Schmalz that looked very promising).

Discomfort aside, Hannersberg’s Brettljause is heartily recommended, mainly for its meat part, made solely from local ingredients. The Speck and the Geselchtes were both exquisite and easily worth place in any delicatessen shop; the pork jelly and the Schweinsbraten were less extraordinary but very good nevertheless. The spreads, on the other hand, turned out quite disappointing: the liver one did not taste much of liver but did not taste of anything else either; the egg spread also managed not to taste of eggs; and only the green pumpkin seed spread was slightly enjoyable. There was also a slice of cheese hidden among the meats somewhere, but it’s not worth talking about.

The crown jewel of the dish was, strangely enough, the bread, served as a whole round loaf, hard on the outside and amazingly fresh inside. I could have happily eaten the bread alone with the wine. Providing it would be a different wine than the house wine Hannersdorf serves by glass. It was frankly disgusting, but unfortunately, all the better wines were only available as bottles.

If the question is whether Buschenschank am Hannersberg is worth visiting, my answer is a firm “yes.” However, for the best experience, bring a few friends, reserve a table, and buy some quality wine.

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