Winkelkeller may be one of the few (if not the only one) restaurants in Tolbach that is not part of a hotel. It also has quite a good rating on the Internet, which – combined with an attractive photo of a Brettljause at its entrance – has put it on the must-eat list for me.
It’s OK. It’s a fine restaurant, in fact – the waitresses knowing their stuff and the interior looking good. There is even a fresco of a kind on its ceiling: a haloed lady holding a sickle (no hammer, unfortunately). It’s not cheap, but you eat reasonably well, and you get a free grappa when you pay at the counter (in the Italian way more typical to the locations further South, you cannot pay at your table).
The “house plate” is varied enough, featuring some Speck, ham, Kaminwürzen and salami in addition to cheese, but there is nothing special about it to warrant a repeat visit. The only interesting thing was a rose-colored creamy horseradish, which I originally took for a spread.
Although listed in the “entries” category in the menu, this Brettljause is too big to be considered a starter. My neighbors were taking a single plate for two persons. I suggest you do the same, and try not to expect much.