A Pre-fish Starter

Location:Taverna del Capitano
Website:No web site
Address:Via Lunglago 8, Porto di Brenzone
Status:Open (last checked on 10 August 2016)
Eaten:“Mixed plate of ham, salami and cheese,” two small bottles of wine, some grilled fish (salad included), an espresso

Based on the comments on the Net, Taverna del Capitano really splits people’s opinions. For some, it’s the “secret place” on the Lake Garda, serving authentic Italian dishes. For others, it’s an ugly establishment with terrible food and unfriendly service.

All I can say, based on my previous visits to Brenzone, is that this tavern seems to get the freshest fish every morning. At least, when taking an early walk after the breakfast at my hotels, I always saw fishermen sorting out and drying freshly caught fish just outside the restaurant. Well, the fish could have also come from a supermarket in Trento, of course, but somehow I would believe it more it was caught in the early hours in the lake itself.

The mixed ham/cheese plate is not a Brettljause and was never intended to be. It is an expensive starter of sorts, compensating its price (13 Euro) by providing some seriously good salami, ham, Prosciutto, Speck and that Italian salted beef thing (bresaola). The plate also contained three types of cheese, which looked promising but in reality – except perhaps one of them – did not provide much taste. No “side dishes” were included, with the exception of some forgettable green salad, but the quality of the meats was quite impressive to ignore both that particular deficiency and a very fresh but dead boring white bread with no butter.

True to the Italian spirit, the 1 Euro espresso was unbelievably good, and both wines I chose from their extensive card were fantastic. The fish, I hate to say, was drier and more burnt than it had to be, but for the Brettljause-alike experience, Taverna del Capitano is a perfectly acceptable place. A Viennese Heuriger serving stuff like that would have won my highest accolades.

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