Vienna’s north-east has been growing fast in the recent years – too fast even, with the much advertised Seestadt still looking like a ghost town. Breitenlee, however, succeeds to maintain its village charm despite the high-rises creeping nearer from all directions. Its Dorfheuriger, which I have somehow managed to ignore until now, fully supports that image, while being quite an anomaly for the almost Heuriger-free 22nd district.
Untypically, this Heuriger has quite a long menu, and its “Heurigenplatte” is a Brettljause in everything except the name and the wooden board. It is actually quite well presented, with the sausages and cheese arranged in an attractive way, and the pickles, mustard and horseradish served in separate bowls. While the meats are quite good on the own, it is the abundance of mustard and horseradish and the freshness of the bread that have made this visit for me. Especially the eye-watering horseradish. It must be so easy to serve good fresh horseradish and yet so many Heurigers screw that up. Totally unexplainable.
If there is anything that this Heuriger has screwed up, it is the bits of cartilage that I kept on biting on in the Schweinsbraten and just about everything else (except cheese, fortunately – that would have really freaked me out). Partly I can blame this on sitting alone in the garden in almost complete darkness and hardly recognizing what I was putting in my mouth. Still, in my religion, cartilage simply does not belong to a Brettljause.
The cartilage problem aside, Dorfheuriger Breitenlee turned out to be a surprisingly conveniently located and pleasant location to have a drink and a bite after work. Better than expected.
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