Can it be that I have been unjustifiably ignoring an entire region with good Heurigers and Brettljausen? It seems so, as my second destination of the same day took me to a place that I should have normally visited a long time ago and probably multiple times. (A friendly advice to Heurigers’ owners: if you want Brettljause-lovers to visit your place, put your menu on the web. I am not always ready to march for two hours unless I know what awaits me at the end of the road.)
Gutenmann is great. It combines a destination that is quite hard to reach (unless you have a car, in which case it is dead simple) with a great view and a wonderful choice of Jausen and Most specialties. The menu is so extensive that a repeat visit is a must, and it’s just unfortunate that the Heuriger is only open for a few weekends each year. Everything is thickly cut (except the forgettable cheese, but we are in the Lower Austria, so let’s not complain) and quite certainly comes from the own production. The liver spread was the hardest thing to conquer, but I suppose I could have managed it, had I not eaten another Brettljause three and a half hours earlier. However, due to my stomach’s limited capacity, I had to prioritize, so the liver, the Blutwurst and the absolutely white Speck had to remain (almost) untasted.
What I did manage to finish were the pork jelly, the lightly smoked fat sausage (possibly veal), a hard Hauswurst and huge slices of Kümmelbraten and Stelze (with a great crunchy and salty crust). All were fantastic, as was the Cuvee Most. I just wish I had tried it before going through all the other inferior types of Most, which still contained enough alcohol to make me feel it two days later.
It is a pity that now one has to wait until August for Gutenmann to open again, but when it does, I’ll definitely pay it another visit, perhaps hiking there from the other side (Ternitz) and not eating anything beforehand.