A Jause with a Knife

Location:Gasthaus Klausriegler
Address:Schobersteinstraße 10, 4453 Trattenbach
Status:Open (last checked on 18 June 2017)
Eaten:"Feiteljause," small mixed salad, three ½ Most, a shot of Marillenschnapps

For many centuries, the region around the villages of Trattenbach and Ternberg in Upper Austria was famous for making pocket knives (Feitel), like the one pictured above. Today they are trying to be famous for having a long history of making pocket knives, reminding you of that fact via information plaques on every other house.

If all the “Feiteljausen” this area offers (and I have seen at least one more restaurant serving it) are like the one of Gasthaus Klausriegler, the region has a very slim chance of ever becoming famous on the Brettljause front. It looks good but is boring, boring, boring.

There are five ingredients, not counting a half of a small cold potato: some unidentifiable cheese, cottage cheese spread, Speck, Schweinsbraten and (a rarity!) cold Braten from minced meat. The Speck and the Schweinsbraten are thickly cut, justifying the use of the sharp Feitel, and, as I said, look appetizing. However, all the ingredients (this time, including the potato) taste alike: of nothing. How the Gasthaus managed to achieve such consistency is a mystery. It must have taken them centuries of practice.

To be fair, the surroundings are quite beautiful, the restaurant’s own garden is shady and pleasant, and the service is very nice. Having the owner’s dog come to your table to be stroked is always welcome, but even the dog refused to eat the fat that I cut off the Speck. And that says something.




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