Despite serving some of Vienna’s best wines and having one of Vienna’s nicest courtyards, Wieninger in Stammersdorf was quite average when it came to its Brettljause (and Martinigansl, for that matter). As it turns out, since my last visit they have revamped their menu: the old Brettljause is gone, replaced by the brand new Heurigenplatte.
Well, it’s a change for the better. The dish is significantly bigger while costing (as far as I remember) the same or almost the same. The quality of the meats (Schinkenspeck, Geselchtes and Schweinsbraten) is certainly above supermarket standards; the menu mentions that they are coming directly from farmers, and I can happily believe that. The Schweinsbraten could have been juicier, but mixing them with the cocktail onions, featured on the plate in abundance, made eating if not enjoyable, then at least acceptable.
The Liptauer and the Grammelschmalz were what one would expect from a top Heuriger, but it was the thick slice of Bergkäse that made this Brettljause for me: pleasantly bitter and going extremely well with my Gemischter Satz. It really looks like the good old Wieninger, still top when it comes to wine and atmosphere, is gradually catching up on the food side as well. I might even consider trying their goose when the time comes.