Flies and Glaciers

Location:Gletscherblickalm
Website:http://www.gletscherblickalm.at/
Address:Hochkrimml, 5743 Krimml
Status:Open (last checked on 19 August 2018)
Eaten:"Gemischte Jause," ½ beer (Stiegl)

Impossible as it may sound, but the last time I visited Krimml, which was in August 2010, I did not care about Brettljausen. I do remember ordering a Speckbrot at Krimmler Tauernhaus, however, and struggling to finish it because of all the flies around me who obviously thought they had a priority when it came to eating.

Eight years later, much has changed (and, let’s face it, not to the better), but the flies are still here. Not the same, of course, but the grand-grand-grand-…-grand-children of those flies, yet just as annoying as their ancestors. And Gletscherblickalm is at least 10 km away from the Tauernhaus.

I wish I knew what Brettljausen looked like back in 2010. Today, I avoided two restaurants simply after taking a glimpse at their menus. The first one offered bread with Speck, bread with cheese and a more expensive dish that was the combination of the above. The second restaurant creatively called its dish a “Jause,” but made it clear in the description that it contained nothing but the Speck of the Pinzgau valley and some cheese.

The “Gemischte Jause” of Gletscherblickalm did not have a description, but at the end turned out exactly the same: plenty of thin slices of Speck and two thick slices of cheese. There was butter, true (and a pretty good one), and a complimentary schnapps, but two ingredients rarely make a great Brettljause.

It was a completely satisfactory Jause though. Both the Speck and the cheese were fine – probably not self-produced, but certainly locally produced. The view from the hut, facing the distant glaciers, is to die for; it is easily the most beautifully located hut I have visited for a long time. But I cannot stop thinking whether it would have really been so much trouble to go to the nearest supermarket and buy some locally-produced Hauswurst or Schmalz to improve the Jause a bit. And sorry, but one should really do something about the flies.

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