I never had an opportunity to properly explore Graz as a Brettljause location. It’s not that far from Vienna, but not close enough to warrant a day trip, while I can’t think of a good reason for spending a night there. As a result, I tend to visit it as an interim destination, for a few hours on my way from south Styria or, in today’s case, west Styria.
This is not to say that Graz lacks Heurige, Buschenschänke and alike. I don’t think there is any wine-making in the vicinity, but there is plenty of it elsewhere in Styria, and all that wine has to reach the capital somehow. Klapotetz is exactly that: a well-hidden wine bar that serves wines from all the best regions of Styria and accompanies it with creative snacks, the most elaborate of which, the Schmankerlteller, I have tried today.
It’s haphazard, but very fancy. I guess I would have prepared something like this given the freedom. There is half a strawberry on it, and spicy wasabi nuts, and grapes, and tiny lentils with pumpkin oil. All the other ingredients are served as just a few slices, but they make the dish interesting. One of the two cheese types was actually quite strong, and the ham was of an expensive sort. Although quite indifferent to the pepper salami and the thinly-cut Hauswurst, I thoroughly enjoyed the Schmalz, served in its own small jar and in sufficient quantity to fully cover three bread slices.
The Jause was not cheap, and the wine was plain expensive, but I really liked the atmosphere of the restaurant, tucked away off one of the city’s main streets. The place was surprisingly quiet and relaxing and inspired me to get back to Graz again soon.