Let’s face it, the COVID has changed our lives quite a lot. The past two years have seen a sharp decline in my Brettljause consumption, partly because of the lockdown and the subsequent problems with travelling, partly because some restaurants have decided that Brettljausen require too much work to pay off and switched to safer dishes like Schnitzels.
However, there is another side of the coin. A few restaurants that had operated buffets had to switch to traditional menus as a result of COVID restrictions, for having slightly drunk people queuing up for food is obviously not a very good way to contain the virus. It seems that Schübel-Auer was affected by this, because I don’t remember it having a printed menu the last time I visited it (which must have been four years ago).
Whatever the reason for serving a Brettljause à la carte was, I am glad that this Heuriger went in that direction, because its Brettljause is fabulous. Plain and simple, it is one of the best you can have in Vienna, and combined with a relaxing shady garden and quality wines, it is a must for anyone interested in Vienna Heuriger culture.
Although having a few “standard” ingredients, such as Speck, Schweinsbraten and a creamy herb spread, the Heurigenplatte of Schübel-Auer is anything but typical. It has some roast beef, for example, which is, unexplainably, very rarely found at a Heuriger. It also has cold Faschierte Laibchen (minced meat patties), cut into slices – another rarity in a Brettljause; I only remember seeing them in a few Mostheurige in Mostviertel. There is even a thick slice of picked beetroot, which I have never met in any of the 500+ Brettljausen I have eaten. And to crown this masterpiece, Schübel-Auer also provides two thick slices of strong hard cheese and a special chutney for it. Absolutely brilliant.