The Mostheurige of Bucklige Welt – a hilly area in the southern part of Lower Austria – are peculiar beasts. On the one hand, they are very authentic, usually located in farms and offering simple and filling home-made food and drinks that the farmers themselves must be consuming daily. On the other hand, they are slightly too authentic, with cows and pigs watching you disapprovingly from the nearby stalls while you are devouring parts of their friends and family, and the strong smell of manure in the air not at all contributing to a pleasant experience. The Brettljausen of Bucklige Welt usually feature a lot of black pudding, pork liver and head cheese, all the stuff that I don’t like. The other meats often lack flavor to such an extent that if you close your eyes for a minute you would have troubles to say if you are eating a Geselchtes, a Schweinsbraten or a salami.
Simon Genuss-Heuriger is different. Half an hour walking distance from the regional center of Neunkirchen, Simon is one of the “Top Heurige” of Lower Austria – an award that usually means quality drinks, a wide choice of dishes, clean rooms and no manure smell. In terms of drinks, it serves no wine but several types of apple Most. Though not as good as the pear Most of Mostviertel, the more expensive types I tried were actually high quality, and I would not have minded taking a few bottles home had I not been too lazy to carry them.
The Brettljause, however, was consistent with Bucklige Weilt’s “standards.” Unusually, though Simon’s Heuriger has a printed menu at each table, one needs to order and pick up the food at the counter. When I asked for a Brettljause, the assistant picked and handed to me a ready-made and shrink-wrapped one. Although I suspect that many other Heurige store their Brettljausen the same way, that did not make a good first impression. On the other hand, looking at the stuff that was on display in unwrapped form, I saw some appetizing-looking cold spare ribs and ordered a small portion in addition.
That was the best decision of the day. The spare ribs indeed had a nice smoked taste, and it was refreshing to take a bite or two of them in the middle of fighting with excessive amounts of black pudding, liver and head cheese. By the time I reached the ingredients I like more, I was quite full and more than slightly disgusted. It was a pity really, because Simon’s Heuriger is a nice and friendly place, and had I stayed with spare ribs or ordered some spreads or salads, I would have left more satisfied. If your tastes are like mine, keep this in mind. If, however, you are into black pudding and head cheese, run to Simon’s now.
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