A Marathon Goose

Location:Heurigenrestaurant Hauerkuchl
Address:Neustift am Walde 66, 1190 Wien
Status:Open (last checked on 18 November 2015)
Eaten:Martinigansl, Wildbrett, ¼ red wine, coffee, 0.4ml Marillenschnapps

Whatever goose one manages to find on the 21st of October, one should not complain, and I will not. And there is not much to complain of. To put it in other words, if there is anything to complain of, it’s of not getting much.

From the outside, the animal looks big enough and a bit overcooked. These both first impressions are wrong. The meat is tender and tasty, the skin is satisfyingly crunchy, but the whole experience is finished within minutes. The fact that the plate is full of fat precludes looking for any hidden bits of meat because doing so unavoidable results in spraying everyone and everything with the fat.

The Knödel is sticky and tasteless and is probably best used filling cracks in the walls, but the red cabbage is quite good: not especially fresh or crunchy, but bearing the subtle taste of the wine leaf hidden underneath.

My theory is that the intention was to improve the quality of the goose by letting it run freely in the nature. Unfortunately, the goose overdid it, becoming a sporty healthy bird ready to run marathons, but lacking in meat and fat. On the other hand, taking the Wildbrett as a starter proved to be a good idea, as the sausages, bread and the horseradish were more than satisfactory.

All in all, this was an acceptable start of the goose season and a place worthy of another visit, but not necessarily for a goose.



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