An Office Party Goose

Location:Amon’s Gastwirtschaft
Address:Schlachthausgasse 13, 1030 Wien
Status:Open (last checked on 16 November 2017)
Eaten:Martinigansl, Amon’s Gansl-Variation (starter), three beers (Zwickl), 1/8 white wine (Filius Grüner Veltliner, Weingut Hagn, Mailberg), an espresso, a Marillenschnapps

The moment you enter Amon’s restaurant, you know that something is wrong. It does not look like a proper restaurant, somehow. It’s spacious, quite modern and stylishly decorated, but it totally lacks coziness. Either it’s the excessive brightness of the light, or a bad placement of the tables, or poor acoustics, but there is a constant feeling of sitting in an office cafeteria rather than a traditional restaurant. Well, not even a cafeteria, but a dining room of a country hotel specializing in off-site seminars and management training sessions. And really, some of Amon’s rooms appeared packed with office co-workers having a team-building goose night out.

Why this restaurant regularly appears in the lists of the best Martinigansl providers is beyond me. The goose-themed starter was indeed brilliant, with smoked goose slices, goose liver parfait and a goose terrine, but the main course itself was average balancing on the border of bad.

Even before the bird arrived on my table, I could not help noticing how the people around me struggled at cutting their geese of an unappetizing orange shade and a strange flat shape. The meat was dry, the skin leathery rather than crispy, and the sauce boring and not especially fresh. In its blandness, the goose was akin to the potato dumpling it was served with. It was only marginally improved by the red cabbage, which was tasty, but slightly over-spiced and seriously overcooked, to the point of being close to becoming an amorphous purple mass. Ordering white cabbage with Speck instead is a more sensible option.

If your management decides to improve the team’s morale by organizing a goose dinner at Amon, there is no strong reason to refuse, particularly if they pay for it, too. However, consider surprising your colleagues by taking the goose starter followed by something not necessarily goose-related.

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