The Goose Standard

Address:Untere Viaduktgasse 45, 1030 Wien
Status:Open (last checked on 27 October 2018)
Eaten:Martinigansl, two ½ beers (Ottakringer Dunkel), apricot Schnaps

Stadtwirt is one of those strange “hybrid” locations that are equally attractive to both Austrians and tourists. Thanks to its location near the Wien Mitte railway station, it is frequented by clueless travelers, but today I also saw quite a few locals enjoying their Schnitzels and Schweinsbraten, though for some reason no goose.

Perhaps it was because for Austrians, the “real” goose season does not start before November. All the worse for them, because Stadtwirt’s goose was not only better than expected, but actually really good. Good enough to serve as a standard that other good geese could relate to.

If you don’t believe me because you have noticed the unusually thick brown sauce on the plate above, I fully understand. However, trust me, it is a very well made sauce, with the taste perfectly adjusted to enhance the goose, and not to add any artificial flavor. The goose itself was also expertly prepared, combining a crispy skin with tender meat and hardly any fat. The meat was slightly too easy to detach from the bones and broke into pieces a bit too readily, indicating that the bird was pre-cooked and heated up, but again – the cook clearly knew what he was doing, and the result was a very enjoyable dish.

The no-thrills red cabbage retained just the right amount of crunchiness, and the potato dumpling, while being as boring as dumplings usually are, did not disappoint more than necessary. When dipped into the sauce, it was absolutely edible and even finishable.

If you have guests coming to Vienna during the goose season, and you are planning to make them try a goose but not sure whether they will appreciate the more authentic but remote locations, Stadtwirt is a perfect alternative. It’s a well-decorated, dark, clean and friendly place, and its goose is much better than one could expect.




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