It is natural to return to the places one likes. When it comes to geese, however, my desire to try new locations often wins over the common-sense approach of going back to the same restaurant that I enjoyed the year before. The result is, inevitably, getting fat on a lot of sub-standard geese, but as a minimum I learn to appreciate a well-cooked bird when I find one. At least that’s what I tell myself for consolation.
The thing about s’Pfiff is that its Martinigansl was not even particularly good when I visited this restaurant last time. On the other hand, the last time was seven years ago, and a lot of things could have changed since then. Like, the old cook leaving and a new one getting hired.
As it turned out, revisiting s’Pfiff was not a bad idea, for its goose was better than most this season. The skin was crunchy, the meat underneath tender enough without tasting unnatural, and the sauce – despite looking watery – perfectly salted and improving the taste of both the goose and the dumplings. The red cabbage, although not crunchy at all, was expertly spiced and tasted pleasantly Christmas-y without overdoing it.
Actually, my biggest disappointment was how quickly the goose ended. I was right in the middle of enjoying it when I suddenly realized that the plate contained nothing but bones. On the other hand, I cannot say I loved the restaurant’s setting. Although the service was friendly and efficient, the ambiance was anything but cozy. The lights were two bright, and the room was too spacious and bare to create any feeling of privacy. Still, I was positively surprised today. Let’s see how s’Pfiff is going to fare in seven years from now.