A Race against Time

Asitz is Leogang’s Hausberg, and the huge AsitzBräu by its top is obviously a must-visit destination for all the tourists. Having reached it on my very first day in Leogang – albeit too late to have a snack there – I made a firm decision to come back in the next days and try the Brettljause, which looked very good – on paper, at least.

The next opportunity came up today, but because of an unexpectedly lengthy hike beforehand, I was again quite late, past 4pm. The waiter asked me straight away whether I was prepared to finish the dish in 25 minutes, because of the cable car’s last ride down at 16:30. “No problem,” I replied, my stupidity fueled by all the beers I had earlier, “I am planning to go back to Leogang by foot anyway.” “Fine then,” the waiter shrugged, “You can have the whole hut to yourself, if you are slow.”

Obviously, I was trying not to be slow, and luckily, the Brettljause was not particularly big. The things that set it apart were a full egg (cut in half) and a paprika sausage that looked and tasted very much like chorizo. I suspect it was chorizo, though I am more used to see chorizo grilled. Trying it raw was my first time, and it was good, though not as good as the cold Gramelschmalz, served in a small glass. The other ingredients were not so exciting, but of good quality. The restaurant’s own beer was not special either, but mountaintop breweries are rare enough to be cherished no matter what.

As I was rushing not to become the last customer leaving the restaurant, I was observing the AsitzBräu’s staff cleaning up, and it was an exciting sight. There were twelve of them at one point, removing seat pillows, menus and cutlery with amazing efficiency. I finished well after 16:30, but as I passed by the cable car, it was still running for some reason, the operator inviting me to enter. I said no at first, intent to go by foot, but at the last moment noticed a sign indicating the expected duration of the walk – 3 hours 10 minutes. Not that I was hungry – so missing the dinner at the hotel was not a big deal – but walking through a forest in complete darkness was certainly not my idea of fun. I ran back to catch the cable car and somehow made it. It is pleasing to think that despite all the beers I quaff, there is still a small active part of my brain responsible for self-preservation.

AsitzBräu, as far as can see, belongs to the same people who operate Leogang’s most famous 5-start hotel Krallerhof, a nearby pub Kraller Alm and a mountain-top hotel AlteSchmiede. Their skill shows – the guys at the Bräu know their stuff, and whether you decide to order the Brettljause or choose something else from the restaurant’s long menu, it’s certainly worth a visit.