No Farmer’s Jause

Remembering Philips Genussheuriger from a disappointing spare ribs lunch two years ago, I knew better than to expect a traditional wine tavern. Philips is more of a modern restaurant, which happens to serve wine. (Not serving wine in this part of Burgenland would have been a sin.) For that reason, I was actually looking forward to trying the restaurant’s Martinigansl, especially since the chalkboard outside clearly said it was available. The printed menu did not list it, however, and a waiter confirmed that I came a few days too late. Fortunately, it was easy to find a plan B, in the form of a Brettljause, called a “Bauernteller,” or a “farmer’s plate.”

I must admit, unfortunately, that no self-respecting farmer would dine on a cold cuts platter like that or at least agree to pay 14 hard-earned euros for it. Featuring only four types of meat and no cheeses or spreads whatsoever, the Bauernteller looked boring and tasted worse. The black pudding was of the blandest sort, which was even difficult to dislike, so little flavor it had. The Speck was not much better, edible but lacking character. The Schweinsbraten, for which I’d had some hopes, was undercooked and actually tasted unpleasant, forcing me to mix it with a crazy amount of mustard and horseradish (which was, mercifully, fresh and strong). Only the Hauswurst, served cut into small round slices, was somehow enjoyable.

Despite having been disappointed twice, for some reason I still think that one can eat well at Philips Genussheuriger. Its ratings are very high, and I saw other guests genuinely enjoying their dishes. I also appreciated the restaurant’s relaxed atmosphere and quick service. Maybe it deserves a third chance next year, and I hope it can change my first impressions with a quality goose.