Goose Warrior

I am afraid I need to issue a disclaimer. Just a week ago I wrote about a really good Martinigansl at Herbeck and rather carelessly listed a number of attributes that in my opinion define a good goose. While my intention was to highlight how a combination of these attributes contributed to a fantastic, well-balanced dish, I might have inadvertently created an impression that a violation of any of these characteristics would make a goose lose points in my eyes. Nothing is further from the truth.  

Meet the goose of Restaurant Musil that proves that a Martinigansl can still be balanced and fantastic while breaking many of the “rules” I mentioned. If Herbeck’s goose had probably had a nice relaxed life in a pretty garden, loved by everybody (as least until the start of the goose-slaughtering season), the bird of Musil must have lived in a big farm surrounded by dozens of other geese and spent entire days fighting its way to earn their respect. The wing and the part of the breast that Musil served me had lots of pretty tough meat, parts of it well hidden between numerous bones and only reachable by breaking the bones with the hands and biting into them, crushing thick and crispy skin on the way. For one time, the wet wipe that accompanied the dish was absolutely essential.

The restaurant kindly offered a choice between red and white cabbage as well as between potato and bread dumplings. I generally prefer white cabbage (partly because of Speck in it), and it did not disappoint. Although lukewarm, it had a tangy taste that was at the same time a contrast and a supplement to the savory taste of the goose. The bread dumpling that I took was incomparably better than the potato dumpling of Herbeck by having its own flavor and not simply serving as means of absorbing sauce.

If you ask me whether to have a Martinigansl dinner at Herbeck or at Musil, my honest answer would be “visit both.” The dishes these two restaurants serve are different but great in their own ways. If, however, you really must select one of them, then it depends. If you are looking for a slightly posh, classy experience in the company of wealthy, mostly elderly guests, go for Herbeck. If you prefer a more lively, very Austrian and slightly chaotic atmosphere and don’t mind a lengthier bus journey to what looks like city’s suburbs (but in fact is not), Musil is a better choice for the same money. However, in that case, try to get a table in a darker of the restaurant’s several rooms and a bit distanced from other tables. I chose wrongly and ended up almost shoulder-to-shoulder with another guest and near the room entrance, so waiters ran past me continuously, threatening to drop trays of beer mugs on my head. Nevertheless, that is the only negative point about Musil that I can think of. It is a really strong contender for this year’s top award.