As I was biting into a Brettljause at Fiakerwirt, a brass orchestra on the central square down the hill was performing the hits of ABBA (badly), the restaurant’s owners were burning a fire in the middle of their picturesque garden, and a bored donkey was standing on the other side of the fence from me, deep in thought over whatever bored donkeys usually occupy themselves with.
The Fiakerwirt is too artificially “urig” to be authentic, but even as a tourist-oriented restaurant, it is doing quite well. Because most of the customers I saw were not tourists, actually.
Its Brettlajuse was mostly thickly-cut, which added to its authenticity. The best ingredient was undoubtedly the Schweinbraten: cold, fresh without been too fresh, and tasting exactly like they should. Some of the other ingredients, like the “Landjäger” sausage, were certainly supermarket-originated, but the overall impression was more positive than not.
Filzmoos is a peculiar place in the sense that is very close to Styria without actually belonging to Styria, and the Brettljause of Fiakerwurt shows it. It’s poorer and sloppier than a Styrian one, but good nevertheless. As part of your first day in Filzmoos, I would recommend visiting Fiakerwurt no matter what. It’s one of the obvious places to go to anyway.