A Mountain Lake Jause

Address:Near Riesachsee, Untertal, Schladminger Tauern
Status:Open (last checked on 12 July 2015)
Eaten:“Kaltenbachjause,” two beers (Schladminger)

I don’t know if any rule can be devised regarding the people who name their Brettljausen according to the name of their restaurants or huts. Are they so proud of their creations that they want their names to live forever? Do they really think that a “Kaltenbachjause” will become a household name like an iPhone? Or are they just being stupid?

Whatever the reason is, here we are dealing with a rather serious contender to the Brettljause throne, whose tactic is to sacrifice variety for the sake of quantity. The slices of Speck and Schweinsbraten they serve are truly gigantic, and the tasteless cheese is plentiful, too. It’s a pity that they have also sacrificed authenticity: while the Schweinsbraten are fantastic – salty, with no bones and with just the right amount of fat – and the Liptauer spread appears to be home-made (just not very good), the Speck, cheese and especially the long rectangular sausage appear to come straight from a supermarket shelf. I might be wrong – the location and the “urigness” of the hut would make it easy to believe that they use locally produced ingredients, but on the other hand, the hut belongs to a hotel, and is more likely than not to get all the raw food delivered by car from the hotel’s kitchen. This Brettljause also contains Verhackertes (too tasteless to judge), horseradish, mustard, pickled cucumbers, onions, a slice of tomato, a Pfefferoni and a few small industrially picked onions out of a can.

It’s a cool location with a great view, the hut is beautiful, the owners are young friendly Lederhosen-Dirndl types, and the Jause is perfectly acceptable, but somehow, somewhere, there lingers a thought that a certain amount of cheating got involved. Still, if you like mountains, lakes, and Schweinsbraten, you cannot go very wrong with the Kaltenbachalm.




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