Everyone deserves a second chance, Brelljause restaurants included. More than four years after my last visit to the Tiroler Alm, their abysmal “Tiroler Jause” is gone from the menu, replaced by the “Almbrettl.” If the name change was an intentional move to break with the shameful past, it certainly succeeded: the redesigned Jause is incomparably better.
True, there is still some tasteless cheese and industrial Bauchspeck and ham. This time, however, they are accompanied by quite a lot of soft cheese, some very thinly-cut hard cheese with a faint bitter taste and – best of all – by some salty Tyrolean Speck, not far from what one can encounter in the best huts of Salzburg and South Tyrol.
Someone has also come up with a great idea of cutting fresh bread into smaller and thus manageable pieces, which encourages putting a slice of this and that on them and eating in tiny bits. Unfortunately, the same someone has totally forgotten about butter, mustard and horseradish – an omission that precludes me from giving the dish an extra point. It does, however, earn an extra point for being very nicely presented: the carefully arranged slices of egg, picked cucumber and tomato surprisingly improve the impression.
The remote location of the Tiroler Alm makes it hard to recommend visiting it on purpose, but if you end up in Hütteldorf (after a visit to the Lainzer Tiergarten, perhaps) and are hungry for a bit for Speck, it is not at all a bad option nowadays.
Leave a Reply