A Hut of Two Lakes

Location:Coburger Hütte
Website:https://www.coburgerhuette.at/
Address:Coburger Hütte, 6414
Status:Open (last checked on 26 June 2023)
Eaten:"Brettljause mit Produkten aus der Region," two beers (Zllertaler)

To start with an off-topic, Ehrwald is so close to Germany that German punctuality seems to affect everything here, including the weather. The forecast had said it would rain at 21:00, and indeed big drops of rain started falling at exactly 9 p.m., as if having waited for the weekly Platzkonzert to finish. Moreover, according to the prognosis, the rain would turn into a light drizzle a quarter of an hour later, and that happened exactly as predicted. As I am writing this, the rain is getting stronger again, and it’s fully according to the forecast. Scary.

Coburger Hütte is further into Austria, which reflects in the fact that it uses the word „Brettljause“ to name its cold cuts platter rather than the silly Bavarian „Brotzeit.“ It has a location to die for, close to the picturesque Drachensee and some 200 meters over the just as stunning Seebensee. If one tries hard enough, one can possibly find a sitting arrangement that would allow one to see both mountain lakes at the same time.

Being a true mountain hut, Coburger Hütte offers simple accommodation, and its restaurant is of an unsophisticated self-service kind, where you carry your drink to your table yourself and have the ordered dish brought to you later on. In this respect, I had expected a much simpler Jause than the one I got. Apart from the thickly cut Speck, Hauswurst and cheese that no Tyrolean Brettljause can live without, the one of Coburger Hütte also featured some Verhacktes and Schweinsbraten. The latter came from the end of the cut, being what my colleague calls the “ass of the meat,” but somehow in this case I enjoyed it thoroughly, putting it on a slice of bread covered with a very strong creamy horseradish spread.

I liked the other ingredients too, though the cheese was not strong and mostly filled my stomach rather than brought any enjoyment. But in general, the Brettljause of Coburger Hütte was more than worth the 45-minute steep climb. Even if you are a crazy vegan, you should climb there for the nice view alone.

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