Even though located very far from any mountain – and very close to Vienna, actually – Asperlkeller feels like a strange combination of a typical Heuriger and a mountain hut. Perhaps this has to do with the absence of a traditional Heuriger buffet and a number of “non-Heuriger” items on the menu including beer and coffee. I think, however, that the main reason is the woody surroundings that create an impression of being far away, despite the fact that the next train station is a simple 30-minute walk away.
On the other hand, Asperlteller does not look like a Brettljause. Rather, it is a huge plate with cold cuts and spreads masterfully arranged on it, creating a false impression of plenitude and variety. There was not much food on the plate – which was fine with me – but its quality left me quite happy. I got a bit surprised when the black pudding, when I tried to bite into it, literally melted in my mouth, and I was even more surprised when the Schweinsbraten did the same, Either they had been extremely finely cut or prepared in some special way, but I felt that my teeth were useless for dealing with them. The Surbraten, the Geselchtes and the Speck required some (but not much) tooth-work, and were of very good quality, though the Speck would have benefitted from the removal of its unnecessary and hard-to-chew skin.
I was less impressed by the spreads. The egg spread was the one I had particularly looked forward to, but it tasted boring, as if prepared many days earlier. The Liptauer was not exciting either, and I found myself more enjoying the bread rolls – which were truly fresh – than the stuff I was putting on them.
I cannot say that the price of over 15 euros without bread was justified; eight or nine would have been fairer. Yet, I have enjoyed Asperlkeller for its relaxed atmosphere and good service and would not mind coming back. Not sure I would order the Asperlteller again, but the long list of drinks that this Heuriger offers is certainly worth exploring.
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