If one does not study a map carefully, Obernholz may appear like a village in the middle of nowhere. In fact, it is within a walking distance from Kamptal valley, and having walked Kamptal up and down many times, I am actually surprised it has not crossed my mind to visit Heuriger Waldschütz earlier, particularly it being considered one of the Top Heurige in Lower Austria. Perhaps this is because its website does not specifically mention a Brettljause.
Now that I’ve been there I can tell you that the Jause alone is probably not worth the nearly two-hour hike. It’s edible (apart from the ugly liver spread that you can see on the photo), but it’s nowhere exciting. The only characteristic that set the Waldschütz Jaus’n apart was its unusually pale, grayish color. One reason was its being heavy on Schweinsbraten, but even the other ingredients, including Speck, were strangely lacking color. The meat looked dead and unappetizing, and there was not a single type of meat that stood out taste-wise. Besides, there were no cheeses – while the Heuriger’s menu had a cheese plate as a separate dish (the cheese coming from Salzburgerland and most likely very good), I would have appreciated a slice or two of cheese on my Brettljause to counterweigh the grayness of the rest.
On a positive side, the wine at Waldschütz was excellent. The extremely hot weather today did not encourage me to try different wines (had I drank only wine to fight my dehydration, I would have become extremely intoxicated), but if the quality of the other wine offerings is anywhere close to the rather cheap Grüner Veltliner that I had, a wine-oriented visit to this Heuriger would be completely justified, even if its Brettljause was quite mediocre today.
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