Austria has a very efficient public transportation system, and I can easily believe that if a location is not reachable with the Öffis, it is probably not worth visiting anyway. In summer, Katschberg Pass is one of such places; both times when I stayed in St. Michael im Lungau during a warmer season, I tried to find a way to reach it without a long and strenuous uphill hike and could not. In winter, however, Katschberg is a highly popular ski resort, and there is a bus going there every half an hour.
It is a bit too popular, actually. I spent my first few minutes in Katschberg avoiding an unending flow of incoming cars and buses, while struggling not to slip on an icy road. Skiers were everywhere, either hurrying clumsily in their heavy outfits or sliding down the slopes like idiots, with a complete disregard toward pedestrians like me. Despite the relatively early hour, all the drinking establishments were open and already full, with the annoying music blasting from all of them. For the first half an hour I seriously thought that the winter hiking path that the Internet had promised me was a fiction. At least I did not have to risk my life crossing skiing slopes – thanks to helpful tunnels under them.
Later, things started to improve considerably. Once the path entered a forest and the alpine panorama suddenly opened behind a turn, the walk became much more enjoyable. Unfortunately, it was also very short. Pritzhütte appeared in front of me before I could fully appreciate the hike or get hungry, but it had just a few tables on its sunny terrace, and only one of them was unoccupied, so I decided not to push my luck and ordered a Brettljause.
There are certain “as shown on TV” Brettljausen that people expect to receive having watched a documentary about life in the Austrian Alps. These are quite rare, and I was happy to discover that Pritzhütte offered one of them. There were plenty of different ingredients in the Jause (including a few cheese types), each represented by only a few slices. The meats were relatively thickly cut, adding to the authenticity. Both the salty Speck and the dry Schweinsbraten were superb, and all the other constituents tasted above average, including cheese, which was not strong but not flavorless either.
The main problem was the cold. Though walking was not a problem, sitting for an extended period, even in the sun, began to feel uncomfortable. The “Kalte Jause,” true to its name, was very cold indeed. That was less of a problem for the Speck and the Schweinsbraten (the latter is actually better when served chilled), but the butter and the spreads completely refused to be spread over the bread. Actually, the bread itself, not fresh to start with, turned even tougher and almost inedible in the cold.
Despite all that, the Brettljause was surprisingly good. I also appreciated the friendly but discreet service, and – of course – the nice view. The path behind the hut was much more scenic and still contained artifacts of a Christmas celebration. Apparently, in late December, Pritzhütte and its surroundings turn into a natural Christmas market. Considering that there are additional buses going to Katschberg for that occasion (including late in the evening), December must be the best time for a visit.
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