Seefeld plateau is considered one of Austria’s top locations for winter hiking, yet either due to climate change or my general lack of luck, I only found a few snow-covered paths yesterday. Today was very different, however – a bus took me to Gaistal valley, where not only the slopes were snow-rich, but also the paths were appropriately prepared for enjoying the sound of snow crunching under one’s boots without the risk of postholing knee-deep.
It was a nice and easy hour-and-a-half walk, culminating in the lunch at Gaistalalm, a hut located just high enough to receive some sunlight at midday, whereas the rest of the valley remains in the shade throughout the winter. I found an empty table surprisingly easily, and the first few minutes sunbathing on the hut’s terrace while sipping a beer were absolutely amazing. Unavoidably, however, more people started to arrive, and soon I was sharing the table with two couples. Well, I cannot keep all the happiness just to myself.
I did not have to share the Brettljause, thankfully, and could fully appreciate the effort that went into it. Though looking pretty simple, it was nevertheless much more “refined” than I would have expected from a place like Gaistalalm, whose menu is generally quite limited. Two types of sliced cheese were included (quite tasty), as well as a triangle of soft cheese, which I would have taken for butter, had not a small tea butter packet been provided, too. The meats were varied and did not taste industrial, and though I did not particularly like the liver spread, I did not find it unpleasant either, despite its strongish taste. The dish was crowned with tear-inducing horseradish and a couple of slices of the best pickled cucumber that I have ever tasted in Austria.
Gaistal must be a lovely place in both winter and summer and is very accessible without being too easy to hike. Quite a few mountain huts are along the walking path, and though I can say nothing about the others (yet), Gaistalalm is as good as one could hope for.
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