A year ago, I praised Gmoa Keller for its consistency and predictability. Whenever I went there, the goose looked exactly the same; if you check out the pictures I took during my previous three visits, you may think that I was taking a photo of the same plate from different angles. Furthermore, while not exceptional, the taste of the goose was always well above average. Though rather tourist-oriented, Gmoa Keller certainly values its traditions, and I had no trouble recommending it to everyone looking for an authentic but easy to reach Martinigansl-serving restaurant.
Today, I was pleased to see that the presentation has again not changed. Unfortunately, the same could not be said about the taste, or rather the meat texture. Put it simply, it was a ridiculously chewy goose. Cutting it with the provided standard knife required a significant effort; a sharp steak knife or even a scalpel would have been more appropriate. Chewing the meat, too, strained the jaw muscles much more than necessary. I probably spent more calories fighting the bird than gained from eating it – good for my health, perhaps, but really not enjoyable. In addition, I found a few substantial lumps of fat in my portion – an imperfection I don’t remember encountering at Gmoa in the past. The best part of the dinner was, eventually, the closing schnapps.
I doubt that the source of the problem lay with the cooking; after all, to achieve the consistency of appearance, the restaurant must maintain very detailed recipes. More likely, the goose itself was the problem. On the other hand, today I visited Gmoa Keller with a big group, and everyone noted the toughness of the meat. I guess, the restaurant simply bought substandard geese this time.
Disappointed as I was, I still hope that this was a one-time misstep, but sadly, today Gmoa Keller proved to be not as reliable as I believed it was. And it is now going to take me a long while to change my opinion.
Leave a Reply