For one time, the weather forecasters were right when they said it would rain slightly but continuously. Well, one can certainly discuss about “slightly,” the umbrella having been a necessity rather than an option, but it’s impossible to disagree with the second half: it rained the whole bloody time. No matter if it rains or not when you arrive in the rather unremarkable town of Purgstall in order to visit the Wurzenbergrer (but especially if does rain), do not believe what Google Maps tell you and choose the path that takes you over the hills and not along the main road. You will hardly walk longer but save yourself much fury over the passing cars.
Wurzenbergrer is the latest member of the Mostbaron elite club of Heurigers, probably having been accepted only this year. It certainly qualifies, being very spacious inside, well taken care of, and, most importantly, serving a very competent Most as well as a very strong Schnapps. As for the Jause, Wurzenbergrer excels in one particular area, and that is everything related to Surfleisch, that is salt-cured pork.
The plate contained three types of Surfleish alone: a strange fat one, stuffed with something tasting of bread and potatoes, a very pink, fatless and only slightly salty one, and truly wonderful salty Surbraten with a burnt crust. Unfortunately, the other ingredients were a bit of a letdown: the Speck was tasty but too fat, the Schweinsbraten a little too dry, and the blood sausage boring but, luckily, very small. The cheese had some faint taste but certainly was not intended as a key component. Finally, the Liptauer spread was not too paprik-y – which is a good thing – but slightly watery and generally uninteresting. On the other hand, all these deficiencies do not hide the fact that Wurzenbergrer knows how to salt its pigs. Had they served nothing but the Surfleisch and the horseradish (and added a bit of pickles, which I quite missed), they would still have provided a much-better-than-average Jause.
The Jause variation I took was the “Hofjause,” different from the also available Brettljause by having thicker slices. They also serve a couple of other, less-varied Jause types as well as larger plates for two or four persons. Besides, they have Surfleisch spare ribs, which I soon regretted not taking, especially since all the locals around me were ordering them. I have a feeling they are very good and may very well become the focus of my next visit.
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