After a couple of unsatisfactory experiences during my recent vacation in Carinthia, I was really not ready for another bad Brettljause. Unfortunately, as I approached Leobner Hütte following a short hike from the top of a nearby mountain, almost everything pointed towards another disappointment. All the tables in front of the cabin were occupied by groups of noisy hikers; the inside was gloomy, with a few tables still having dirty plates and glasses on them; and the queue to the kitchen door at which one had to order food and drinks was quite long. Moreover, what I could see through the door was not increasing my confidence. With no malice meant, let’s say the kitchen was extremely basic.
On the other hand, I was quite sure that I would not have another opportunity to try Leobner Hütte’s Brettljause for at least five years – the hiking path to it, though quite beautiful at times, is not exciting enough to walk it too often. Hence, I asked for a bottle of beer and a Brettljause and sat at one of the tables indoors, preparing to be let down and trying not to pay too much attention to the people continuously passing by.
What I had forgotten was that Leobner Hütte was in Styria, the land where serving a decent Brettljause is a matter of national pride. And indeed, despite a ragged look, it was a Jause with no compromises. It contained three thick slices of Speck (all slightly different), a Verhacktes, a pumpkin spread (another tribute to Styrian culture), a piece of Hauswurst, Schweinsbraten, Surbraten, and some cheese (not very strong, but not tasteless either). The “greens” were simple and standard, but the mere fact that the hosts of this hut, which has only very basic amenities, took the care to give the Brettljause a proper look, is highly commendable.
Not everything was perfect, of course. The two slices of bread were not what I call fresh, and the Schweinsbraten had some cartilage and an annoying rubbery skin, which I did not notice in the darkness and had to swallow after seconds of unsuccessful chewing. However, the Brettljause certainly exceeded my expectations, and when, having finished it, I went outside and realized that the hikers had left, I wished I could somehow cancel out everything I had just eaten and have another Brettljause outdoors, enjoying the lovely Alpine backdrop.
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