
Pfänder is the local mountain of Bregenz, the capital of Vorarlberg, and has two restaurants, which are open in different months. Pfänderdohle is the “winter restaurant,” but this afternoon the weather was warm enough to sit outdoors, despite the quickly approaching sunset.
After six days of drinking wine in Italy (Bregenz was my short intermediate stop on the way back to Vienna), it was a nice change to find Most on the menu. It was sweeter than the one usually served in Lower Austria, but I did not expect to find Most in Vorarlberg at all. What I did expect was tasty Vorarlberg’s cheese, but the only type of cheese served was local, perhaps, but not strong at all, tasting slightly bitter and quite disappointing.
Instead of cheese, the Brettljause was heavy on sausages and Speck. The most enjoyable was a kind of a Landjäger sausage (because of its rectangular shape), but much tastier than what finds in shops. The other highpoints were the presence of red and green chili peppers, both really hot, and very fresh bread with a crunchy crust.
All in all, Pfänderdohle is a cozy place to stay at, and I did not especially mind that its food filled my stomach so much that I had to skip my planned dinner at one of the fancier restaurants in the city. Besides, Pfänderdohle is next to an animal park with marmots, and no fine dining can beat the sight of marmots. Except that… at least one marmot had a substantial part of its fur completely missing. Don’t ask me why!
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