An Unexpected Heuriger

Location:Wambacher Heurigen-Restaurant
Address:Lainzer Straße 123, 1130 Wien
Status:Open (last checked on 8 April 2022)
Eaten:Brettljause, small mixed salad, ¼ Gemischter Satz, ¼ Grüner Veltliner, 1/8 Chardonnay

Hietzing, the 13th district of Vienna, is best known for the Schönbrunn palace. Otherwise, it is a quiet upper-class residential area and is not at all a destination one would think of when planning a Heuriger visit. That is why I was very surprised when a Google search for a Brettljause returned me Heurigen-Restaurant Wambacher.

Wambacher looks like a Heuriger – it even has a large inner courtyard, which must be the ideal place for drinking in summer – but operates more like a normal restaurant when it comes to serving food. A part of the clientele is foreigners (possibly lost on their way back from Schönbrunn), but more than a half of the people I saw appeared to be locals, and the restaurant got quite busy by dinner time. While waiting for my dish, I saw the waiters carrying quite a few Brettljausen past my table, and that was reassuring.

Wambacher’s menu lists Brettljause in the section “for small hunger,” and rightfully so. It is not big, just enough for one person. I would actually recommend it as a starter to share between two people; it may be more enjoyable that way than as a standalone dish. There is hardly anything out of ordinary about the Jause’s ingredients, apart from an unusually salty thinly-sliced Speck and a couple of thicker slices of fat and spicy Wurzelspeck. I quite liked the Schweinsbraten, which was quite dry and had a slightly “old” taste, which for Schweinsbraten is a good thing. The herb spread was fresh and most likely homemade, but the other ingredients were, while not bad, instantly forgettable.

Wambacher did not surprise me by the quality of its Brettljause (like Heuriger Schübel-Auer did yesterday), but finding a new restaurant with a Brettljause in Vienna is always nice. Especially in a non-wine district like the 13th.




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