The Affordance Problem

Location:Weinterrasse Pulkau
Address:Pulkautal 25a, 3741 Pulkau
Status:Open (last checked on 30 December 2023)
Eaten:"Herziges Brettl," ¼ Veltliner Premium 2022, ¼ Goldochs Cuvée Rot Reserve 2019, two 1/8 Grüner Veltliner Edelberg 2012

Affordance is one of the basic prerequisites of usability, stating that an object must possess qualities or properties that make it clear how it can and should be used. In this respect, the “heartfelt plank” of Weinterrasse Pulkau fails miserably. Just look at the photo. How is one supposed to approach this beast?

It was quite clear what to do with the Liptauer, of course: spreading it over the bread was the only reasonable option. The pile of finely cut onions, the Grammel (baked pig fat) and pumpkin seeds confused me completely, however. Grammel without Schmalz, for example, is not much more than a test of the strength of one’s teeth, while onions may go well with Schweinsbraten or Schmalz, but cut so finely are pretty useless for anything except salad.

The cheese and the meats, good by themselves (except the cartilage-plagued Schweinsbraten), would have benefitted from being put on a flat slice of bread, of which there was, sadly, none. The bread was served as three different kinds of long rolls, more appropriate for spreads than big slices of head cheese and Geselchtes. It was as if this Brettljause was prepared by someone with a good taste in visual design who had, however, never tried eating any of their creations.

Actually, the whole Heuriger seems to be still looking for its place. It is too modern to be called cozy, yet it offers a fantastic view over the vineyards and its location on the outskirts of the town is perfect. It offers a nice choice of wines, but none of them – not even the most expensive “Grand Reserve” sorts – are particularly good. Its Brettljause is one of the cheapest around (under 10 euros with bread included in the price), yet Weinterrasse offers dry aged steaks and other distinctly non-Heuriger dishes.

I liked the service, I liked the price, and I quite enjoyed the fact that after a big group of people celebrating something had left, I was all but alone in the restaurant. Yet I doubt I will willingly come here for a Brettljause again.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *