A Goose with a Goose Taste

Location:Schiefer Giebel – Buschenschank Ferschel
Address:Rathstrasse 30, Neustift am Walde, 1190 Wien
Status:Open (last checked on 5 November 2022)
Eaten:Martinigansl, white wine (Gemischter Satz), some Schnapps

In the recent times, Schiefer Giebel, once the secret location for all things goose, has been cutting down on their operations. Two or three years ago you could still see it open at least five times a year for a week or so, but last year it did not open at all. This year, however, they have made an exception for the goose season.

I am glad to say that their skills at cooking the big white birds have not been lost. Like before, it’s a reservation-only affair, and the cook/owner gets really upset if you don’t turn up at the pre-agreed time. Apparently timing is of great importance in this business: 10 minutes too late and they cannot guarantee the quality of their creation.

Whether that theory is true or not, I was glad not having to test it, because the goose was outstanding. The skin was perfectly crispy; the meat was perfectly tender; it was neither too fat nor too dry; and the sauce it was swimming in was definitely related to the animal itself and not shared with some Gulasch.

As customary with many “proper” goose makers, Schiefer Giebel serves the red cabbage, the berries and the extra fat sauce separately. All of them do their job perfectly, i.e. support the goose rather than try to hide its deficiencies. The only really negative point about this offering was its size: such a good goose deserves a bigger piece. Other than that, it’s the closest a Martinigansl has come so far to tasting how a goose should taste.

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