Finding spare ribs for under 11 euros these days is something extraordinary. There are restaurants, I am sure, where the same amount of money will get you a rib. On the other hand, the one and a half racks of Studeny’s “young ribs” were anything but small. I do not know where the word “young” came from; the ribs looked quite full grown to me. They were also startlingly good, especially considering that I found them in a never-heard-of Heuriger in a small wine village of Sooß not far from Vienna.
You know that ribs are good when having tried them without a sauce you feel perfectly fine to continue eating them without one. The ribs of Studeny were like that: the marinade was subtle – something peppery with a hint of honey – but the meat had no “piggy” flavor whatsoever, instead tasting fresh and occasionally slightly burnt in a pleasant way. One of the sauces, when I tried them at last, was quite garlicky but not industrial and provided a refreshing variety. The second sauce was unfortunately the standard “hot and sweet Chinese one,” which, I believe, every person tries at some point, absolutely loves for a week or two and then is absolutely content not to touch till the end of one’s life.
The ribs arrived accompanied by perfectly fried potato wedges. I also ordered a separate cabbage salad, and it, too, had a fresh and refreshingly unconventional taste. I came to Sooß looking for a Brettljause, but am now likely to come back for more of Studeny’s ribs and the Heuriger’s other specialties.