It’s impossible to describe this Heuriger without mentioning what a disaster that place was before. Although the windmill has always been one of the main attractions of Retz, its state left a lot to be desired. Actually it was perfect to make photographs illustrating total decay.
All seems to have changed in a few years I’ve not been been to Retz. The new restaurant features a modern design with a glass wall providing a nice view over the town and the vineyards, and the menu contains not only a Brettljause, but a more expensive Gustoteller, a cheese place, and quite a few other unhealthy dishes to get your teeth into. Unfortunately, some idiot has also turned the windmill’s blades by 45 degrees, making it much less photogenic, but that’s another story.
The Brettljause is unquestionably non-supermarkety, featuring the best parts of the pigs from the area. While not very big and varied, it’s sufficient to satisfy a medium hunger with the slices of Speck, ham, Geselchtes, blood sausage and cheese. There is also a Liptauer spread and something looking like pinkish already-chewed meat, which easily was the best part. The lack of horseradish was compensated by exceptionally fresh bread (which could be expected from a mill after all). In a very capitalistic fashion, the bread was charged extra, as would an egg (“from a happy chicken”, as the menu put it) or an additional cucumber be, but the fact that they are available at all is welcome by itself. I would have preferred the cheese to be replaced by one of the tastier sorts – and they do have tastier sorts as the cheese plate has demonstrated – but even with those deficiencies the Brettljause was well above average.